OEM Tire Study

 

Just a little food for thought when buying tires for our Harleys. When you replace your tire with a tire that is not rated for your bike then your choice of tire will most likely be an inferior one (as far as load rating goes). I recently got a 9/16” bolt lodged through my rear OEM Dunlop tire so I was in a situation where I needed to replace it with a non-OEM tire (here in the Philippines Dunlop tires are not available, you need to bring them in yourself). The two main alternatives are METZLER and DURO (there could be other less know brands out there). I ended up buying a DURO because I don’t like the METZLER’s tread design (the METZLER has NO centerline rain grove, the DUNLOP and DURO does). The subject of this article will mostly be about LOAD RATING (and LOAD/SPEED INDEX). I ride a heavy bike that is equivalent to a Heritage with saddle bags fully loaded so load rating is very important. Below is some info I dug up about OEM tires and non-OEM tires:

 

 

The following is for a Heritage Softail (FLSTC) using OEM tires:

 

The FLSTC OEM front tire is a D402F (MT90B16)(Load/Speed Index = 72H). The load rating = 783 lbs

The FLSTC OEM rear tire is a D402 (MT90B16)(Load/Speed Index = 74H). The load rating = 827 lbs

 

(Data Source: http://www.dunlopmotorcycle.com/tirecatalog_tire.asp?id=5)

 

 

Ok now let’s talk about alternative replacement tires:

 

DURO has only one tire (130/90-16)(Load/Speed Index = 67H), the load rating = 675-lbs.  This tire is frequently use for the front and rear. The DURO’s load rating stacks up like this; its load rating is 152-lbs under OEM for the rear and is 108-lbs under OEM for the front. So if you’re packing heavy then you could be over that limit on the rear.

 

DURO does make a 140/90-16 with a Load/Speed Index = 71H, the load rating = 759-lbs. The problem with this tire is that it would be too wide for the rear because the DURO 130/90-16 already touches the belt slightly so the 140/90-16 will most likely be wider and therefore most likely could damage your belt.

 

NOTE: the DURO has no designation for a specific design or application. In the Philippines it’s commonly used for the front and the rear so I would put the DURO in the category as a multiuse tire. I would also add that the DURO is NOT designed for Big Harley Baggers; so performance and load rating will be inferior.

 

(Data Source: http://www.durotire.com/productdetails.php?productid=473

 

METZELER makes a “ME 880 MARATHON” tire for the Harley. The load rating is better but still a little under par with Harley’s OEM tires. Two other things I don’t like about the METZELER, it has NO centerline rain grove and it wears out quicker then OEM. Below are the load ratings for the ME 880 MARATHON:

 

Front: 130/90-16 with a Load/Speed Index of 67H. the load rating = 677-lbs, this is 106-lbs less then OEM

Rear: 130/90B-16 with a Load/Speed Index of 73H. the load rating = 805-lbs, this is 22-lbs less then OEM

 

NOTE: if you’re buying METZLER then make sure you are NOT mix-matching front and rear tires. If you need a rear tire then make sure you get the one made for the rear.  The same goes for the front because front tires have a specific design and so do rear tires. In other words, Front and Rear tires do different jobs; they are designed to support different weights and are designed to support different loads when cornering.

 

(Data Source: http://www.metzelermoto.co.uk/web/catalog/moto/moto_catalogo_schedaDescription.page?uri=/metzeler/en_GB/browser/xml/catalog/moto/Custom_ME_880_Marathon.xml&vehicleType=MOTO&menu_item=/products/catalog/custom" style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; text-underline: single)

 

DUNLOP also makes a D404 with the same physical dimensions as OEM (D402). But like the DURO, the DUNLOP D404 only has a load rating of 677-lbs, front and rear! (Load/Speed Index = 67H). So for you guys out there that thought you were getting a better deal by buying the DUNLOP D404 because it didn’t have HARLEY DAVIDSON stamped on the tire, well the real reason why the D404 is cheaper is because the load rating is 150-lbs under OEM for the rear and it’s 106-lbs under OEM for the front. So in reality you guys pay less and you’re getting less!

 

I consider the DUNLOP D404 a multiuse tire (like the DURO), it’s not designed for the weight of a Big Harley Bagger.

 

(Data Source: http://www.dunlopmotorcycle.com/tirecatalog_tire.asp?id=37

 

 

You can go to this link as see the LOAD/SPEED INDEX chart:

http://www.us.metzelermoto.com/web/products/technology/maintenance/default2.page

 

 

…you guys still with me? If you’re having a slow day like me then please let us continue, cuz the weather here kinda sucks today and I’m in-between appointments :-) 

 

Ok lets see if we can put all then together in a real world application, and let the rubber meet the road :-)

 

My 98 Fatboy weights more like a Heritage (cuz it has everything a Heritage does; passing lamps, windshield, luggage rack, saddle bags). The Harley manual says the 98 Heritage weighs in at 704-lbs dry (no engine oil, oil tank oil, trany oil, fork oil). I put my bike on a scale and it weighed in at 720-lbs wet with the saddle bags empty. The weight on the front axle is 325-lbs and the weight on the rear axle is 395-lbs. When saddle bags are loaded (tools and parts) it’s an additional 52-lbs (25-lbs on the right and 27-lbs on the left). It’s only today that I discovered that the weight is pretty evenly distributed on both sides, yeah for me :-) 

 

Ok… now I’ll add my weight to this so that’s another 185-lbs (with helmet) plus 52-lbs for stuff in the saddle bags. There’s some addition stuff to add to this but it’s optional so let’s add up what we got so far:

 

720-lbs My Fatboy/Heritage (Hybrid)

 52-lbs Stuff inside the Saddle Bags (tools and parts)

185-lbs My Weight

-------

957-lbs (full time weight: bags full, no backrider, no luggage)

 

Now I’ll add the optional stuff (this gets me to the max weight I carry)

 18-lbs for my luggage (on luggage rack)

 12-lbs for my backrider’s luggage (on luggage rack)

100-lbs for my backrider’s weight (100-lbs is my absolute limit!)

-------

1087-lbs - Total Max Weight Across Both Wheels

 

 

Ok we know the total weight, so now comes the tricky part cuz some additional calculations need to be made so we can know more precisely what the loads are on each axle.

 

The wheel base (axle to axle) is 63.9”. The stuff inside the Saddle Bags sits directly over the rear axle so its weight will get added directly to the rear axle. I weight 185-lbs and I sit 17” in front of the rear axle (and 46.9” behind the front axle). So 26% of my weight is on the front axle and 74% of my weight is on the rear axle. So this works out to 48-lbs on the front axle and 137-lbs on the rear axle. Next the backrider sits 4” in front of the rear axle. I will put this value at 100-lbs beings this is the max weight I will allow for any backrider (so girls you better put those donuts down!). So that comes to 26-lbs on the front axle and 74-lbs on the rear axle. Next the luggage sits 4” behind the rear axle. The total weight I usually carry is 30-lbs (18-lbs for my luggage and 12-lbs for my backrider’s luggage). This comes to 8-lbs for the front and 22-lbs for the rear.

 

Now we can add up all the weight on both axles (bike’s fully loaded):

 

325-lbs Front Axle

 48-lbs for my weight on the front axle

 26-lbs for my backrider

  8-lbs for luggage

-------

407-lbs Total Front Axle Weight (325 + 48 + 26 + 8)

 

395-lbs Rear Axle

137-lbs for my weight on the rear axle

 52-lbs Stuff inside the Saddle Bags

 74-lbs for my backrider

 22-lbs for luggage

-------

680-lbs Total Rear Axle Weight (395 + 137 + 52 + 74 + 22)

 

 

SUMMERY:

 

DUNLOP 402 / 402F : (783-lbs) / (827-lbs). Both passed. Highest score for Load Rating!

 

METZLER : Front (677-lbs)  Rear (805-lbs). Both passed (but I’m still not comfortable with no centerline rain grove and I’m not excited about them wearing out quickly.

 

DURO : Front / Rear (677-lbs). Front passed but not on the rear. But if you don’t pack a chick and you don’t weight too much then the DURO is acceptable.

 

DUNLOP D404 : Front / Rear (677-lbs). Same results as the DURO

 

 

I just wanted to drive home that this study was done on a 1998 Evo Heritage that is setup like mine. It's just an example so you can get a better feel for how your weights are distributed across both axles. Of course if you have a different bike (and different OEM tires) then you should research your weight across each axle and research what tires are available. The point I was trying to drive home is that most the time when you move away from OEM tires you are getting tires with less Load Rating, which is self explanatory plus your performance may suffer too .

 

 

FUCK this little study took a long time to put together ...my afternoon is pretty much shot now! But the good news is I can see that it’s finally dry outside now so I’ll take this opportunity to take my new rear DURO out for a spin :-)

 

Cheers!

 

 


You're looking at a 9/16 bolt that found it's way into my read Dunlop tire.





Below are some additional tire safety links

Motorcycle Tires: The Sticky Facts & Top Tips

Tires: Inflation vs. Suction

Roadside Tire Repair

How to Run Tubeless Tires on Wire-Spoke Wheels






Smitty, great write up on tire load ratings. here in china i have a 1993 fxst and a difficult time finding tires. they are very expensive, if you can find them at all. Especially difficult to find is the 21 inch front tire, typically these have a 48H load rating, but usually oK for FXST because of the slight rake of the fork and lighter front end vs heritage with passing lights etc.

Anyway, I wanted to add that you MUST look at the tire date code on any tires that you purchase. Also, there are many tires that are not US DOT certified and as a result i would generally not use them on a motorcycle.

Here is good web site explaining how to read your tire date codes:

http://www.aa1car.com/library/tire_expire.htm

The front tire on my 1993 FXST was slightly side-wall dry rotted and the date code turned out to be back from 1999! YES, A 10 YEAR OLD TIRE and it still had at least half tread left. You can also find "old stock" new tires but WATCH OUT. Tires should be scrapped if older than 6 years from date of manufacture.

kinda like oil changes -- everything is personal opinion. personally i like metzeler tires and have used them for years. I prefer them to anything else including dunlops. I know it is just a preference thing. You can fit a 140 metzeler on the rear of a softail and it has a 74H weight rating. Metzeler they do wear out but i have found them to be best wet weather tire out there...better than dunlop and not as prone to cupping as the dunlop. Also, the rubber is stickier (hence faster wear) making them a very good performance dry tire, especially as surface road temperatures heat up. Be careful on the duro tires. They are inexpensive/cheap but they use a vinyl sidewall instead of kevlar or other more durable sidewall material. I have seen side-wall blow outs on those duro tires. scary shit.

I have been doing some riding here in china finally -- very good riding in these parts. i'll send some photos along soon.


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